ROSEMARY MAC CABE

Givenchy is a label that evokes days gone by, luxurious fabrics and, indeed, luxurious times – since Riccardo Tisci‘s inauguration as the label’s head designer in 2005, the label’s aesthetic has moved from pure classic to classic with a twist. Tisci’s stamp is all over Givenchy’s more recent productions: muted colours aligned with monotones, along with a Balenciaga-esque emphasis on structure, particularly on the shoulders (so very now and so very delicious – Blanaid does a great line in the shoulders, it has to be said). The Balenciaga link is telling, as Givenchy’s founder, Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy, was taught at that very design house. The SS 2010 RTW collection doesn’t pull any punches – nor does it disappoint.

all images via Style.com

I absolutely love the muted palette paired with the elaborate, sumptuous folds of material, as well as the stark black and white blazer coupled with serious shoulder action. The Grecian grey dress with white epaulette detailing is divine, as is the nude coloured folded fabric dress – but how will this all translate onto the high street? The short answer is, it won’t, at least, not any more than it already has. We have big shoulders, we have Grecian, we have epaulettes – but what Givenchy has done is produced a collection that encompasses each of these factors without being overpowered by any one, while simultaneously building on each to create a new and fresh aesthetic.

I’d like to see some of those beautifully soft shrunken yet oversized boleros hit the high street, as I would like to see the black and white structured jacket – and I predict a serious blending of fabrics in the coming seasons. Leather with wool, satin with a light gossamer: it’s all ahead of us.

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